I spent 1.5 hours (6:30 – 8:00pm) surfing yesterday!
Chest to head (occasional overhead) high waves. Almost to the point of being too big for my ability. Paddling out was a chore and a half. Say what you want, but it’s a killer back/shoulder/arm workout. Not as glassy conditions as this weekend. The rougher conditions were probably due to the onshore winds. It also closed out a bit quicker so we had a steeper face.
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You feel like you’re going to “fall” into the wave. I caught my fair share and decided to quit while I was ahead. Damn near ran over a little kid on a boogie board and then got snaked on three or four waves because a noob girl was sitting in front of my line and not even trying to catch a wave. Oh well, we all learned at some point. I’m still learning. But, to be honest, it was far too big and hairy to be out there if you don’t at least have an inkling of what you’re doing…
I’ve basically come to the conclusion that I’m going to surf any day I can. I’ve got all winter to be in the gym. Surfing is such a release for me and it’s just too damn fun to pass up. Especially when we’re getting good swell. I’ll be on and off at the gym until about mid-October. Hey, it’s not like I don’t get a good workout doing it.
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